Can creams penetrate the skin?
First, it's important to explain the basics of skin. Its primary function is protective , acting as a barrier against mechanical, chemical, or toxic aggression, as well as against pathogenic microorganisms. It's also important to know that it's permeable . This combination causes our skin to select certain substances that can penetrate and others that can't.
We start with the penetration routes:
1. TRANSEPIDERMAL INTRACELLULAR: The active ingredients penetrate the stratum corneum through cell membranes. That is, they penetrate the different layers of the skin and reach different cells.
2. INTERCELLULAR TRANSEPIDERMAL: The active ingredients also penetrate the stratum corneum, but through the intracellular cementum. This cementum holds cells together.
3. TRANSAPENDICULAR: The active ingredients penetrate through the skin's appendages, i.e., the hair follicle and sweat glands.
PENETRATION OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS
For a cream to penetrate properly, it's important that the skin is completely clean, prepared, and exfoliated . This way, not only is the skin receptive, but it's also free of dirt, pollution, sweat, sebum, or dead skin cells that could interfere with penetration. It's also important to use the right amount.
The skin is lipid-loving, so fatty substances will penetrate more easily.
Additionally, cosmetic products will penetrate the skin depending on several factors.
- The active ingredient itself
- The vehicle or excipient
- The presence in the formulation of substances that promote penetration
- The anatomical and physiological characteristics of the skin
Let's explain these points in a "brief" way
1. The active ingredient itself: penetration will vary depending on the size of the molecule and its diffusivity.
2. Vehicle, excipient, and other factors: Depending on the product's formulation, the vehicle(s) used, the pH, etc., the ingredients will penetrate the skin to a greater or lesser extent. For example, caffeine has a high penetrating power, but if you take ground coffee and put it on your face, it won't do much. The entire formulation must be optimal for the substances to penetrate. For example, vehicles: alcohol, propylene glycol, propanediol, etc.
3. Anatomical and physiological characteristics
For thicker skin, penetration will be more difficult . Mechanical or chemical exfoliants will help in this case, such as the Apricot Kernel Facial Scrub.
Older, sensitive, thinner skin is more permeable.
More hydrated and cared for skin is less permeable. But be careful! What we want is well-hydrated and healthy skin. We'll figure out how to make the ingredients we want penetrate better.
** Place of application of the cosmetic:
The skin that protects our body is not equally dense in all areas, which is why cosmetics are manufactured for different areas and functions.
The skin on the face is more permeable than the scalp or the body. Within the facial area, the eye contour , being the thinnest skin, is the most permeable.
The palms of the hands and the soles of the feet are the least permeable
Still, there are certain substances, such as vegetable and mineral oils, hyaluronic acid, etc., that, despite not being able to penetrate the skin, help retain moisture and improve the quality of the stratum corneum, something our skin will appreciate. A good option for all skin types is the Gentle Cleansing Foam enriched with hyaluronic acid.
Conclusion:
- Creams are able to penetrate the skin, although the depth they reach will depend on many factors.
- Some creams do not penetrate the skin, but provide other benefits.
- It is important to keep the skin clean, prepared and hydrated
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